Fisherman wearing traditional working knitwear
Lana Turner, known as the ‘Sweater Girl’
The Early Years
The pullover has evolved over centuries and as with so many traditional knitted garments, its roots lie in practical design. The story begins on Britain’s rugged coasts, where the pullover was essential workwear for fishermen, sailors, and labourers at sea. In the 15th century, the Channel Islands of Guernsey and Jersey were particularly well known for making woollen garments that could keep seafaring men warm. These pullovers, known as ‘ganseys’, were crafted from thick wool that retained its natural oils, providing both insulation and water resistance – essential qualities for the relentlessly harsh conditions in which men were working every day.
Sweaters remained part of workwear for centuries, valued for their warmth and durability. As knitting techniques advanced and became more versatile, the pullover sweater engaged more than the working classes. By the 19th century, innovations in machine knitting allowed for mass production; no longer only a blue-collar style associated with working the land and the sea, they were accessible and affordable for leisure wear as well.
Transition to Fashion: The Influence of Women
The early 20th century saw a significant shift in sweater culture, with famous figures and transforming knitwear from pure utility to high fashion and renowned publications endorsing these trends. Vogue featured knitwear from the late 1920s, popularising the sweater as a chic and comfortable alternative to blouses and dresses. Scottish wool was a popular material for creating these garments, and Scotland quickly became known for producing some of the finest quality knitwear in the world.
This was when sweaters became synonymous with the modern woman’s wardrobe. They symbolised liberation from restrictive clothing and Victorian/Edwardian mores. Across social classes women embraced the pullover sweater for its versatility and ease of wearing. The sweater became sportswear, work attire, and stylish casualwear.
Hollywood Calls: The Rise of the Sweater Girl
The 1930s and 1940s saw a shift in how sweaters were perceived, and Hollywood played a large role in transforming the sweater from a functional garment into an item with intrinsic allure. This transformation was most famously demonstrated by actress Lana Turner, who became a household name in 1937 through her role in Mervyn LeRoy’s They Won’t Forget. Turner’s astonishingly form-fitting sweater earned her the nickname ‘Sweater Girl’, marking the beginning of a fashion trend that celebrated a sleek, feminine silhouette.
The Sweater Girl image remained a pop culture phenomenon throughout the 1940s and 1950s; most of us can probably conjure in our minds an image of Marilyn Monroe or Jayne Mansfield embodying this style. The pullover sweater had become glamourous, sensual, and the Hollywood sheen made it a coveted garment across America. Film stars were wearing sweaters that accentuated their femininity, and despite being controversial at the time, this style is viewed in retrospect as part of an era of empowerment: women had the choice, at last, to be more daring in what they wore.
Post-1960s: Sweaters as Casual Fashion
The 1960s and 70s brought new variations in the pullover sweater, with oversized, bohemian styles dominating the market. This was a time when both sexes and all ages would have a sweater in their wardrobe, a ubiquity that was answered in the 1980s when fashion houses worked on giving the garment design icon status. This decade brought an emphasis on bold colours, which were popular as ‘preppy’ attire on university campuses around the world.
And what’s happening today? As fashion continues to evolve, the pullover sweater does too. In the 1990s and 2000s, as workplace-wear shifted to a more casual code of dress, the pullover became an essential part of the ‘business casual’ look and could be repurposed for off-duty hours. Today, it continues to adapt to changing tastes, with sustainability and heritage materials coming more into focus as consumers seek to combine quality and eco-consciousness.
The Argyle Crewneck Jumper
Here at Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear, we honour the legacy of the pullover sweater through our Crewneck Jumper. Inspired by traditional Argyle patterns, this knitted outerwear piece unites practicality and elegance. Made from the finest grade wool sourced from Scottish Blackface sheep, the Argyle Crewneck Jumper is a versatile unisex style that celebrates men and women’s shared history in textiles and fashion.